Willy Wonka Worthy Time-Keepers
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Credit: Shinola
“Chocolate” Watches
Chocolate, chestnut, mahogany, cinnamon, it’s a color family commonly found on watches, especially men’s oh-so sophisticated and dapper styles. But, don’t mistake these tickers with the same-old-same-old, because these luxurious showstoppers are chock full of interesting gadgets in a range of earthy tones.
There’s a little of everything from; textural copper and flexed golden dials paired with bracelet straps to black TR90 and bronze bezels that stand out against earth toned leather and alligator straps to classic chronographs and visible Haute Horlogerie mechanisms.
Thankfully, there are plenty of choices. So, take your pick to start a stylish watch collection or add to your already lush box of “chocolate” watches.
Roger Dubuis
Since its launch in 1995 the Roger Dubuis brand has pushed the limits of Haute Horlogerie with limited edition mechanical calibres in ultra contemporary skeleton styles. The “Exalibur Quatuor” is a shining example of this with its gravity defying “four spring balances, working in pairs at a 90° angle and linked with five differentials”, not to mention a 4x4 Hz frequency. The rich pink gold, exquisite baguette-cut diamonds and lush chocolate alligator strap complete the “Haute” factor.
Roger Dubuis “Exalibur Quatuor” watch, Price Upon Request at Roger Dubuis.
Breitling
Willy Breitling was the third-generation watch maker that created a versatile chronograph that would be equal in function and elegance or as Willy described “’the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” That style was and still is referred to as the “Premier” chronograph. The most recent version pays homage to the original with its everyday yet luxurious aesthetic (sleek fixed bezel and twin register dials) and of course technical standards (self-winding movement).
Breitling “Premier B01 Chronograph 42” watch, $9,100 at Breitling.
Citizen
Citizen is definitely a recognizable brand within the industry and has been since its inception over 100 years ago. Known for creating both quartz crystal and titanium timepieces, as well as Eco-Drive technology (light powered watches), it’s no wonder they’re a staple for beginner and veteran watch collectors. That said, a classic automatic is always a welcome piece in anyone’s collection. Rich gold and brown tones are featured on everything from the stainless steel three-link bracelet to the bi-directional bezel. But it’s the textured dial that elevates this watches aesthetic from day-to-night status.
Movado
Movado was founded in 1881 by Achilles Ditesheim in La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland, but it wasn’t until 1947 that the iconic museum dial was created by Nathan George Horwitt. Each collection is outfitted with the signature dial (which was inspired by a sun dial), including Movado Bold’s latest TR90. This black TR90 and bronze watch hosts a bold 43.5 mm case, chronograph dial and Swiss Super-LumiNova accents and a rich cognac leather strap. The ultimate watch for a sporty man that wants to include a little dapper flair to their ensemble.
Girard Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux has been manufacturing watches in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland for over 230 years and remain one of the few houses with Manufacture status by “mastering all the required horological skills in-house”. The Laureato style first launched in 1975 with its slim case and raised octagon shape bezel. One of the newest styles in the collection, the “Laureato 38 mm Copper” embraces the original sportiness with an extra playfulness that’s projected from the Clous de Paris motif (or tiny pyramid pattern) dial. It appears to reflect a range of gold and brown tones with the slightest movement by the wearer.
Girard-Perregaux “Laureato 38 mm Copper” watch, $14,900 at Girard-Perregaux.
Shinola
Shinola is definitely considered the “new kid on the block” when it comes to watch making, but that doesn’t seem to deter watch aficionados one bit. The Detroit based brand was originally founded in 1877 in Rochester, NY as a shoe polish brand and then relaunched as a retail company focusing on watches in 2011 by Tom Kartsotis.
The Monster GMT is a popular series within the brand and the bronze version is their latest launch within the series. It has Sellita SW330-2 inside movement, a fourth hand for multiple time zones and comes with an alternative black woven strap, making it an ideal travel companion.
Shinola “The Bronze Monster GMT 40 mm” watch, $2,295 at Shinola.
Market Editor: Johannah Masters
