The Past & Present, Perfect
Photo credit: @alighieri_jewellery
Modern heirlooms, inspired by ancient history
Jewels, gems, adornments—whatever you want to call them, they’ve always been a part of human expression. In fact, jewelry, in the form of amulets and seals, was worn for spiritual reasons in Iran as long ago as 3,000 BC. But it’s the Egyptians we have to thank for elevating self-adornment to the highest level—while talismans were key, so were stones we still rock today, like turquoise, lapis, and amethyst.
Not to be outdone, the ancient Greeks and Romans also favored head-to-toe ornamentation to celebrate their deities, reflect their beliefs, bring luck and protection, and sometimes, to simply showcase their wealth.
Sound familiar? When it comes to the reasons we wrap our wrists in bracelets or add earrings to our outfits, not much has changed over the centuries. Recognizing this indelible connection to the past, modern designers are looking backward as a key source of inspiration, using age-old techniques coupled with talismans, motifs, and gemstones, simultaneously celebrating our human history and our modern-millenia style.
Darius
Los Angeles-based designer Darius Khonsary’s eponymous line looks both familiar and like nothing you’ve ever seen before. Drawing inspiration from her own Persian ancestry, each satin-finished, gold and gemstone creation is meant to build “a bridge to the archaeological past through the use of symbol and material.” Some pieces reference archival designs, like the “Lovers” necklace, based on a cylinder seal, circa 2100 BCE, found at the Ziggurat of Ur (an Early Bronze Age structure in present-day Iran). Truly, these pieces of art will stand the test of time.
Common Era
Ancient history and mythology are the two things that inspired Common Era. Founder Torie Tilley wanted “to build a brand that brought Homer, Ovid, and Virgil to life through jewelry,” while also focusing on sustainability and craftsmanship. Each collection is a deep dive into history, from the Goddess collection’s Ancient Greek mythological heroines and deities to the Nine Muses collection, which hones in on the daughters of Zeus and Mnemosyne (the goddess of memory, in case you forgot). But it’s the Talisman collection that showcases Tilley’s clear love of embracing Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and even Victorian motifs in wearable form.
Marei
Founded by Egyptian-Dominican designer Angie Marei and based in New York, “Marei’s luxe-noir pieces bring life and sultrier dimensions to the artifacts of the ancient worlds.” The result? Darkly seductive collections with an elegant twist on antiquity. An array of subjects provide inspiration; comic book heroines, Old Hollywood sirens, and of course, mythology and ancient, bygone eras. Among her collections, you’ll find nods to Egyptian pharaohs, and amulets that emulate the likeness of Aphrodite, Greek goddess of beauty and love.
Alighieri
Rosh Mahtani founded her demi-fine jewelry brand, Alighieri, in 2014 with a focus on celebrating imperfect beauty and human vulnerability (inspired by Dante Alighieri’s “The Divine Comedy”). She does this through a centuries-old method of jewelry-making, sculpting talismans in wax that are then cast in bronze, sterling silver, or gold, all resulting in modern heirlooms with a refined rustic aesthetic.
Azlee
Designer Baylee Ann Zwart creates timeless styles with low environmental impact (using recycled gold and vintage or ethically sourced gems and diamonds), “drawing from historical romanticism and inspired by ancient civilizations.” It’s a contemporary fine jewelry line that bridges ancient practices with Art Deco architecture, resulting in the perfect mix of craft and luxury.
Elizabeth Locke
After a life-altering work trip to Bangkok, Elizabeth Locke decided to earn a degree in Gemology and launched her self-named brand in 1988. Her fascination with the antique jewels of the Etruscans, Greeks, and Romans continues to inspire her neoclassical line (Venetian glass intaglios are favorites among her fans) and spurs her to hunt for antique treasures that she then works with Thai goldsmiths to transform into one-of-a-kind creations.
Pamela Card Jewelry
Pamela Card took a hobby of jewelry-making and turned it into her current eponymous line in 2017. Focused on forming jewels through the ancient crafts of wax-casting and hand-forging, her creations “embody the style of jewelry at a time period that bridges between Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman art.” Each piece tells a story (literally and figuratively) and symbolizes different forms of faith, with medallions and talisman motifs that look as if they were just discovered at an archaeological site.
Editor: Rebecca Daly
Market Editor: Johannah Masters
Every item featured is personally selected by our writers and editors (read: we're totally into it). Please know that when you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission (read: we get to keep doing what we love).