Shopping Guide: Finishing Touch(es)

Nov 2

Befuddled by bezels and baguettes? Flummoxed by facets and finishes? Fear not—our handy jewelry guides decode the finer points of fine jewelry, so you can shop with knowledge and confidence.

Engraved to oxidized, master these metalworking terms

Set the gold standard. Rule with an iron fist. Get down to brass tacks. Metal elements are so intrinsic to our culture they’ve infiltrated our very language, and is it any wonder? Metals have seemingly magical properties, from the permutable to the permanent, they can be melted down, manipulated into any shape, and set with finishes that will last forever. Below, our primer on some of the most sought-after metalworking techniques you’ll find in fine jewelry.

Florentine

This fabulous finish is created using a diamond-tipped tool, resulting in a texture that makes metal sparkle in a stunning way. It’s a signature of the Bucci brand, which has been operating since 1885, with Carolina Bucci now at the helm.

Engraved

Often done by hand, either on a finished piece or on the metal before it’s casted,we tend to think of engraved designs as being systematically symmetric. But Alex Soldier's perfectly imperfect 18k rose and white gold bands offer a more organic feel.

Alex Soldier textured tri-colored gold bands, $1,650 each at Oster Jewelers

Milgrain

Most commonly found circling the edges of timeless wedding bands, “milgrain'' refers to a beaded-looking effect on the metal itself. While you can’t beat a classic, companies like Charles & Colvard are thinking outside the little velvet box by adding milgrain finishes to intricate pieces like this pendant.

Hammered

A self-explanatory technique, goldsmiths and designers take a tiny hammer to soft metals to create cool crater-like shapes that catch the light at all angles, adding edge to everyday pieces. Hammered designs can be polished for high shine, but designer Rebecca Overmann takes a softer approach, giving this ring a muted, satin-like glow.

Oxidized

Oxidizing is a process in which chemicals are applied to sterling silver to give the normally bright-and-shiny material a finely-aged, darkened patina, like the bottoms of these hand-forged hoops by Pittsburgh-based designer Samantha Skelton.

Stamped

Stamping can be used to imprint anything from letters and dates, object impressions or simple patterns into thin metals. Under the careful hand of LA-based designer Jacquie Aiche, the process creates an eye-catching texture that seems to make this ear cuff’s diamonds shine even brighter.

Jackie Aiche diamond marquise pave ear cuff in 14k yellow gold, $1,500 at Jacquie Aiche

Editor: Gail Goldberg
Wordsmith/Market Editor: Rebecca Daly

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