Forever Jewelry, Permanently

Sep 6

There’s more than meets the eye when it comes to jewelry. Get the big picture with our long-form deep dives into the ever-changing, everlasting jewelry biz.

The future of jewelry is claspless

A family heirloom left behind in a tangle of hotel sheets. A slip of a clasp and—poof!—a favorite bracelet becomes one with a city sidewalk. Lost jewelry. Sigh, we’ve all been there. If you’re in the lost jewelry club or squeal at the idea of everlasting adornments, permanent jewelry might be your new jam. And it’s all the social media rage.

The idea is simple. Interested parties can schedule an appointment with a jeweler offering permanent services. The jeweler then welds or solders a bracelet, anklet, or necklace to custom-fit—completely free of clasps or closures. It’s a sparklier tattoo of sorts, but with the option of a less painful (and less costly) removal process.

Some trace the origin of permanent jewelry back to the famous Cartier Love Bracelet, originally designed by the French jewelry house’s Aldo Cipullo in 1969. Driven by the idea of chastity, Cipullo frequently said the Love Bracelet was born following a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong. It can only be removed with a specialized Cartier screwdriver and remains a bestseller forty years after Cipullo’s passing.

If you wear your favorite pieces repeatedly, committing to a piece of permanent jewelry seems like a no-brainer and, dare we say, responsible. Since permanent jewelry supports the idea of purchasing high-quality, long-lasting pieces vs. low-quality items that are worn for a short time and discarded, many view it as sustainable. Most of the permanent jewelers we found work in 14k and 18k solid gold, as it doesn’t tarnish like other metals.

Good to know: you can wear permanent fine jewelry through airport security.

Another draw is the experience it offers. Where most permanent jewelers work “by appointment only,” some, like Dainty of Denver, Colorado, offer local pop-ups (AKA: the perfect outing for you and your bestie).

Fine jewelry designer Valerie Madison works with the dreamiest eco-friendly stones and recycled metals. In addition to Madison’s heirloom-quality bridal and semi-custom designs, her permanent bracelets are offered in baby flat, rolo, cable, and flat chain styles—each luxuriously timeless. Appointments are encouraged in her charming Seattle-based boutique.

California-based Marisa Mason (formerly Marisa Haskell) is known for her easy-to-wear, layer-worthy pieces designed in brass, sterling silver, and gold. Her permanent chains are available in 14k and 18k gold across fifteen varying styles. Translation: you may not stop at one. Find Marisa in Oakland and her Santa Barbara studio.

Schyler Gately of LA-based Susumi Studio offers aptly named Infinity Jewelry in thick, thin, and regular cable chain options across 14k and 18k yellow, rose, and white gold. You can also choose to add tiny charms—think dainty pearls and stars that sparkle.

Trained metalsmith Hannah Keefe started soldering thin continuous wire in gold or silver as bracelets on clients in 2014 as a streamlined departure from her maximalist, cascading-chain aesthetic. Some have dubbed her permanent bracelets the indie equivalent of Cartier’s Love Bracelet. Hannah attaches her sought-after bracelets from her LA studio.

Brooklyn’s famed Catbird calls on fans to “get zapped!,” a clever spin on the spark caused in the welding process. Visit their Welding Annex for a forever friendship bracelet of sorts. We’re smitten with the Tiny Corsage Bracelet, which features a sweet .03ct brilliant-cut white diamond. Talk about love at first zap.

Love Saro, a mother and daughter duo out of Boulder, Colorado, creates both one-of-kind stone sculpture and handmade jewelry made with love, purpose, and intention. Their permanent offerings include custom-made chains in sterling silver, 14k or 18k gold, across various link styles. Clients can also add charms, from semi-precious stones to stunning diamonds. This mecca of melding art mediums is worth a visit either way.

Editor: Samantha Durbin Wordsmith: Sommer Naffz

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